ASIA LIFE: HEAD FOR THE HILLS

An Eco House in Laos

Solar power and guided treks aren't politically correct gimmicks at The Boat Landing. They're the norm in this back-to-nature haven

By Brian Keeley

Issue cover-dated May 06, 2004

IT TOOK A WHILE before the people who run The Boat Landing in northern Laos realized what they had built. They thought it was just a small guest house along a bank of the Namtha River, but after hunting around the Internet and talking to some guests they realized it was actually something else. "I had never heard of an eco-lodge before," admits Bill Tuffin, one of the partners in the guest house. "But when I saw the descriptions I said, 'Hey, that's what we are'."

Tuffin happily admits that there's a simple reason for The Boat Landing's environmentally friendly policies: "Most of the eco things we do are because, firstly, they're very practical," he says. That's not surprising in this remote part of Laos, which is only slowly waking up to the outside world. For instance, when the guest house opened in 1999 there was no mains electricity in the area. So guest rooms were fitted with a mix of solar-powered lights and energy-saving lamps because, admits Tuffin, "we didn't want to buy a bigger generator." The sun also powers the surprisingly effective showers. "If the sun is very hot," says Tuffin, "you can make coffee from the water."

Tuffin, a 42-year-old American, came to Laos 14 years ago as a development worker, and was based for much of the time in the northern town of Luang Namtha, about nine kilometres from where The Boat Landing stands. To help around his house, he employed a local teenager, Sompawn Khantisouk, and later helped put him through university, where he studied architectural draftsmanship. That proved a useful skill when the men decided a few years ago to build the guest house. Khantisouk drew up the plans for the reception area and guest bungalows, which are built from local wood and bamboo and based on traditional Lao designs. "We had to ask the old people in the villages about the details," says Khantisouk.

Khantisouk's family are all involved in the project. His father helped build the guest house, while his wife, Patsanee, runs the restaurant kitchen serving mainly northern Lao dishes such as aw lahm, a local stew, chilli pastes and sticky rice.

The 10 guest rooms, located in six bungalows, are simple but comfortable. Each looks out over the Namtha river, and for many guests there's nothing better than to sit out on the deck of their bungalow and watch the life of the river go by: Water buffalo in the morning, laughing children in the afternoon, and bathing villagers in the early evening.

It's a timeless scene, and one that's hard to imagine ever changing. But change has come, and is coming, to this part of Laos. Electrification arrived 12 months ago, while work is due to begin soon on a new highway from China that will run through the area.

Laos, though, is working to maintain this idyllic setting. The hills surrounding the guest house are part of the 2,224-square-kilometre Nam Ha protected area, which is home to many hill tribes and a rich variety of wildlife. Government-trained guides lead small parties of visitors on one-to-three day treks into the mountains, which include visits to traditional villages. Visitors can also go mountain-biking, canoeing and rafting in the area.

The hope is that this sort of guided tourism will bring in much-needed cash without causing too much disruption. Khantisouk--a former guide himself--believes it's already helping the hill tribes realize the value of saving the forests and their traditional way of life. In return, he says, "people's lives are better. They have more money to buy things like mosquito nets and blankets. That makes me very happy."

THE BOAT LANDING GUEST HOUSE AND RESTAURANT
Luang Namtha, Laos. Tel.: (856 86) 312 398; e-mail: ;
www.theboatlanding.com
PRICES: From $25 to $40 in high season (November-end April)
GETTING THERE: Many visitors to Luang Namtha come by road from Luang Prabang, a journey of about 10 hours, or by boat. From Vientiane, Lao Aviation operates a daily 90-minute flight to Luang Namtha
WHEN TO VISIT: It's hottest from March to May and wettest from May until late October. The rainy season is perfect for rafting, but most visitors prefer the cooler, drier months between November and March
HEALTH: Northern Laos is a malarial area